Lyon

Budget

Budget
$
Chez Jules
Place saint paul

Many bakeries offer good quality sandwiches, made with fresh baguette of course. Try, for example, Chez Jules, 7 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon B: C3-Gare St Paul, or Kayser, Place Louis Pradel, 69001 Lyon M: Hôtel de Ville.

Budget
$
Chez Mounier
3 rue des Marronniers

Chez Mounier — A traditional bouchon restaurant with good food for a very reasonable price a complete menu for €10. Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.

Budget
$
El Loco Latino

15 min across the rhone from hotel de ville. latino bar with low budget food. the day menu is €7.50 and the empanada is €4.

Budget
$
kebab shops

Otherwise, kebab shops abound, most with the same price: €4.50 for a kebab, €5 for a kebab with frites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux M: Hôtel de Ville.

Midrange

Midrange
$$
L'Ouest
1 quai du Commerce, 69009 Lyon
+33 4 37 64 64 64
Full menu from €24
M: Gare de Vaise

A brasserie owned by Paul Bocuse, near the river Saône. The specialities are fish and cuisine of the Caribbean.

Midrange
$$
Le Resto
20, rue Mulet
Just off rue de la Republique

Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well.

Midrange
$$
La Mâchonnerie
36 rue Tramassac, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 42 24 62
Full menu €28-45
Dinner only except Sat, closed Sun
M: Vieux Lyon

Traditional local cuisine, but the place is more comfortable than a bouchon. Delicious, genuine, home-made dishes served in very large quantities, and a very good wine list favouring the locals - a very good place to taste the real Beaujolais. Upon reservation, the restaurant can accommodate quite large groups.

Midrange
$$
Les Adrets
30 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 38 24 30
Lunch from €13, dinner €23 to €38
M: Vieux Lyon

Very good classic French cuisine, made from quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area.

Midrange
$$
Brasserie Georges
30, cours de Verdun
+33 (0)4 72565456
from €25 to 35
Located behind Perrache Station

An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat.

Midrange
$$
Le Layon
52 rue Mercière
+33 4 78 42 94 08
Full menu €23.50/27.50
Mon-Sun, lunch and dinner. Serves all day (12PM-12AM) on Sat and Sun
M: Cordeliers

In another street full of tourist traps, this restaurant offers very good, classical local and French cuisine. Try the grenouilles frogs. Very nice terrace. Good wine list at interesting prices.

Midrange
$$
Chez Martial
34 rue Saint Jean
+33 4 78 38 31 75
Menu €19
M: Vieux Lyon

Tiny bouchon, maybe the only acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps.

Midrange
$$
L'Art et la Manière
102 Grande rue de la Guillotière, 69007 Lyon
+33 4 37 27 05 83
Lunch from €16, dinner €26/33
Closed Sat, Sun, Mon dinner
M: Saxe-Gambetta

Small no-tourist restaurant in a no-tourist area. Friendly yet professional service, short menu but very creative, high-quality cooking. Good although short wine list. The best bottles are at amazingly low prices given their "constant mark-up" policy.

Midrange
$$
Le Bistrot de St-Paul
2 quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 28 63 19
Lunch €14.50, dinner €21.50/29.50/33
B: C3-Gare St Paul

This restaurant serves mostly specialities from southwestern France duck, foie gras, cassoulet....

Midrange
$$
Le Resto d'Alice
34, Rue Sergent Blandan
+33 4 78 28 09 33‎
Full dinner w/dessert and wine €30
Rue de Capucins begins just south of Croix Paquet metro station, take it 300m west; note street name changes

Small bouchon with cute rustic interior and patio located on nice green plaza. The Andouillette and gratin dauphinois are particularly good. Service is very friendly. Also surrounded by other interesting looking eating options and convenient velo'v station on plaza.

Midrange
$$
Bouchon Chez Paul
11 rue du Major Martin, 69001 Lyon
+33 4 78 28 35 83
Full menu €25
Closed Sun, Mon (lunch)
M: Hôtel de Ville

A very good bouchon serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly.

Midrange
$$
Espace Le Bec
Le Centre, upper level, St Exupéry airport
+33 4 72 22 71 86
2-course menu from €20, 3-course menu from €25

Before boarding your return flight, you can treat yourself with a last fine meal in Lyon. This place was opened by Nicolas Le Bec, who once ran the most trendy gastronomic restaurant in the city and offers quality bistronomic cuisine.

Top end

Top end
$$$
L'Auberge de l'Ile
Place Notre-Dame, île Barbe, 69009 Lyon
Menus €95/125
B: 40/43/31-Ile Barbe

One of the best places in Lyon, in a 17th century building on a lovely island on the Saône.

Top end
$$$
Paul Bocuse
40 rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or
+33 4 72 42 90 90
From €100

The master of all chefs. Taste the legend of "Monsieur Paul", who is over 80 years old and still runs this palace restaurant... and many others.

Top end
$$$
Têtedoie
Montée du Chemin Neuf, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 29 40 10
Lunch €40, dinner €56/68/76/96
F: Minimes

A new address for a well-recognized chef. The previous restaurant had a classic dining room on the banks of the Saône. Têtedoie is now taking his restaurant to the next level with a prestigious location offering one of the best views in town and a very contemporary decor, with the same culinary spirit and prices. The wine list is so big they have to carry it around on a trolley. The place also features a wine bar, a "bistro-style" terrace €40/50 and an Italian restaurant.

Top end
$$$
La Mère Brazier — Mathieu Viannay
12 rue Royale, 69001 Lyon
+33 4 78 23 17 20
Lunch menu €35, dinner menus €55/75/95
M: Hôtel de Ville

The restaurant opened in 1921 by the legendary Eugénie Brazier was recently taken over by the talented young chef Mathieu Viannay and awarded 2 stars by the Michelin guide only a few months after its opening. Revisited all-time classics Bresse poultry with truffles, artichokes with foie gras.

tablier de sapeur

Marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitate before trying it;

andouillette

Sausage made with chopped tripes, usually served with a mustard sauce;

saucisson chaud

A hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine saucisson beaujolais or in a bun saucisson briochã©;

These dishes are very tasty. They were originally workers' food, so they are generally fat and the portions are usually quite big. The quality is very variable since the bouchons are one of the main tourist attractions of the city. A good tip: never trust big signs reading "Véritable bouchon lyonnais" genuine bouchon or with a list of typical dishes on the front window. Those who need to write this are most often tourist traps. In tourist areas, most notably Rue St Jean, pay extra care and stick to trustworthy recommendations if possible. And if someone on the street tries to get you into a restaurant, run. A good bouchon, however, offers very good value for money.

Good bouchons?

A local association awarded the "Authentique bouchon lyonnais" label to 22 restaurants all over town but mostly on Presqu'île, considering the quality of their food and wine, the typicity of their decor and the owner's strong personality. They have a metal plate on their façade representing Gnafron, Guignol's friend, with his glass of Beaujolais.

In bouchons and other lower- to mid-range restaurants, basic wines can be served by the pot, a typical bottle containing 46 cl and filled from a cask or wine box. The smaller fillette little girl contains 28 cl. This is definitely cheaper than a 75 cl bottle, but the quality is not always guaranteed...

Lyon was named "capital of gastronomy" by the great gastronomic writer Curnonsky in 1935; at that time there were no exotic restaurants, no diets and nobody was talking about fusion cuisine or bistronomy. Fortunately, the local gastronomy has considerably evolved since then and there is now far more to dining in Lyon than the bouchons. Kebab shops, Asian food, bistros, three-star restaurants: Lyon has them all.

The locals are generally fond of eating out and the best places get known quickly by word of mouth. Moreover, the restaurants are quite small on average. It is strongly advised to book a table, especially for dinner, otherwise you may end up in one of the multiple tourist traps. Since many good local chefs seem to enjoy a good family weekend, there are a lot more interesting options on weekdays.

quenelle de brochet

Dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce nantua sauce;

Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. As everywhere in France, the prices always include service, bread and tap water ask for a carafe of water. Tipping is rare and only expected if you are particularly satisfied with the service. This is especially true in budget or mid-range restaurants, maybe less so in expensive places where it may be considered more appropriate; nothing is compulsory, though. Typical tips depend, of course, on the price of the menu and your level of satisfaction but they are generally not as high as in the US, for example. If you pay by credit card and wish to add a tip, you can tell the person in charge how much he/she should charge your card.

Meal times are generally 12PM-2PM for lunch and 7:30PM-10PM for dinner. Visitors from areas such as North America and Northern Europe might be surprised to find many places still closed at their usual dinner times. Places offering all-day service are located in tourist areas, and are unlikely to serve quality fresh food. Late-night service is quite rare in quality restaurants, but you can always get the usual fast-food or kebab.

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons; the origin of the word is unclear it literally means "cork". They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisis forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele. These women are referred to as mères mothers; the most famous of them, Eugénie Brazier, became one of the first chefs to be awarded three stars the highest ranking by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. She also had a young apprentice called Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good bouchon is certainly a must-do. They serve the typical local dishes:

cervelle de canut

cervelle' = ' brain: fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.

rognons de veau à la moutarde

Veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. delicious and textural experience.

salade lyonnaise

lyon salad: green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;

gratin dauphinois

The traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream;

Ice cream, pastries, etc.

ice cream, pastries, etc.
Chez Jules
Place Saint Paul, Lyon
M: Vieux Lyon

A fantastically authentic bakery. Try the tarte aux fraises and the mini quiches. Perfect for breakfast, a snack or an early lunch.

ice cream, pastries, etc.
Nardone
3 place Ennemond Fousseret/26 quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 28 29 09
From €7
Summer: Mon-Sun 9AM-1AM, winter: Wed-Sun 10AM-7PM, closed Dec 31-Mar 10
B: C3-Gare St Paul / M: Vieux Lyon

Delicious ice cream with very original flavours, served on a very pleasant terrace. Completely overcrowded on sunny weekends, be prepared to queue... but it is worth the wait if you are a real ice cream fan.

ice cream, pastries, etc.
Pain et Cie
13 rue des Quatre Chapeaux, 69002 Lyon
+33 4 78 38 29 84
Brunch €18
Mon-Sat 7AM-10:30PM
M: Cordeliers

This place is quite popular for its Sunday brunch.

ice cream, pastries, etc.
Les Enfants Gâtés
3 place Sathonay, 69001 Lyon
+33 4 78 30 76 24
Summer: Mon-Sun 12PM-12AM, winter: Tue-Sun 10AM-7PM
M: Hôtel de Ville

Very good ice cream, on a lovely neighbourhood square. Also a good Sunday brunch.

ice cream, pastries, etc.
Boulangerie du Palais
8 rue du Palais de Justice, 69005 Lyon
+33 4 78 37 09 43
M: Vieux Lyon

In this small bakery, you will find good praline tarts, a popular local dessert.